Publications

BOOKS (SINGLE AUTHOR)

Fashion Before Plus-Size: Bodies, Bias and the Birth of an Industry (London: Bloomsbury, 2023)

BOOKS (CO-AUTHOR)

(In Progress) (Re-)Dressing the American Body, co-authored with Emma McClendon (New Haven: Yale University Press)

BOOKS (CO-EDITOR)

(In Progress) Fashion in American Life, co-edited with Hazel Clark (London: Bloomsbury)

BOOK CHAPTERS

(In Progress) “A Plus-Size Problem” in Fashion Design Case Studies: A Student Guide to Learning with Case Studies, edited by Fiona Dieffenbacher (New York: Fairchild Books)

(Accepted) “From Circumference to Size: Tailoring the Fat Man, 1820-1920,” coauthored with Chloe Chapin in The Handbook of Men’s Fashion, edited by Ben Barry, José Blanco and Andrew Reilly (London: Palgrave)

(Accepted) “Case Study: Plus-Size Fashion” in Jennifer Craik (ed.) Fashion: The Key Concepts, 2nd Ed. (London: Bloomsbury)

(In Production) “Fashion and the Fat Body” in José Blanco (ed.) The Meanings of Dress, 5th Ed. (London: Bloomsbury)

(In Production) “Design for Borderline Bodies” in Laura Snelgrove (ed.) Fashion & Motherhood (London: Bloomsbury)

“On Cultivating Empathy: Toward a Size Inclusive Fashion Design Curriculum” in Deb Christel and Ben Barry (eds.) Fashion Education: The Systemic Revolution (London: Intellect, 2023)

“Shaping the Standard Body: Sizing in American Fashion,” co-authored with Emma McClendon in Michelle Tolini Finamore (ed.) Fashioning America: From Grit To Glamour, (Fayetteville: The University of Arkansas Press, 2022)

“The Pregnancy Corset" in Michelle Millar Fisher and Amber Winick (eds.) Designing Motherhood: A Century of Making (and Unmaking) Babies (Boston: MIT Press, 2021)

"Looking Fat in a Slender World: The Dialectic of Seeing and Becoming in Jen Davis' 'Eleven Years'" in Morna Laing and Jacki Wilson (eds.) Revisiting the Gaze (London: I.B. Tauris, 2020)

“Queering the Hourglass: Beauty and New Wave Fat Activism” in Alberto Ferriera and Lucy Moyse (eds.) Cosmetic, Aesthetic Prophetic: Beyond the Boundaries of Beauty (Leiden: Brill, 2019)

“Fa(t)shion February and Fuck Yeah VBO: Case Studies in Digital Embodiment and Sartorial Counterdiscourse” in The Body Beautiful? Identity, Performance, Fashion and the Contemporary Female Body (Oxford: Inter-Disciplinary Press, 2015)

"Effortless Consumption: The "Anthropoloigie of a Brand-Focused Online Shopping Community" in Joseph Hancock, Gjoko Muratovski, Veronica Manlow, Anne Pierson-Smith (eds.) Global Fashion Brands: History, Luxury and Style (London: Intellect, 2015). 

"Fedora: Description, history and Use in the United States" in Mitchell D. Strauss and Annette Lynch (eds.) Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia (Lanhan, MD: Rowman & Littlefield, 2015). 

GUEST-EDITED JOURNAL ISSUES

Special double issue, "The State of the Field: Theory & Method," co-edited with Marco Pecorari, The International Journal of Fashion Studies 5.1 (2018).

PEER-REVIEWED ARTICLES

(In Progress) “Fat Social Justice Within Fashion Education,” coauthored with Dominique Norman, Keena Hudson and Deborah A. Christel, Fat Studies: The Journal of Body Weight and Society.

(Submitted) “Growing Up Through Growing Down: Reframing Degrowth in Fashion Education,” coauthored with Sara Idacavage, International Journal of Sustainable Fashion and Textiles.

“On Fat Clothes: Unravelling Plus-Size Design Discourse,” Design Issues 38.1 (2022).

“Discourses of Discontent: Fashion, Activism and the Commodification of Fat Women’s Anger,” Fat Studies: The Journal of Body Weight and Society, Special Issue, “Fashioning Fat,” edited by Calla Evans.

“Body as Architecture: Designing the Stout Body in the Age of Standardization,” Fashion Studies 3.1 (December 2020)

"A History of Fashion Without Fashion: Recovering the Stout Body in the Digital Archive," Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty, special issue, "Fashion Digital Memories," edited by Marco Pecorari, 10.1(June 2019).

"Flattering the Figure, Fitting in: The Design Discourses of Stoutwear, 1915-1930," Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture (February 2019, Online First).

"Fashion Plus: Pose and the Plus-Size Body in Vogue, 1986-1988" (Reprint and Translated into Russian), Russian Fashion Theory 46.1 (Winter 2017-2018).

"Fashion Plus: Pose and the Plus-Size Body in Vogue, 1986-1988," Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 21.2 (January 2017): 175-199.

"The Brooklyn Flea: A model for counter-consumption?" Journal of Design Strategies, Special Issue, "Alternative Fashion Systems" 7.1 (2015)

"You are What you Wear: How Plus-Size Fashion Figures in Fat Identity Formation" (Reprint and Translated into Russian), Russian Fashion Theory 34.1 (Winter 2014-2015).

"Performing Vintage: The Cultivation and Dissemination of Vintage Sensibilities at the Brooklyn Flea," Canadian Review of American Studies 44.2 (August 2014).

"You are What You Wear: How Plus-Size Fashion Figures in Fat Identity Formation," Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 18.1 (February 2014): 45-71. 

"Fashion or Dress? Fashion Studies Education and Pedagogy," CUADERNO 48 (Fall 2013): 113-127.

"What is Fashion Studies Anyway?" co-authored with Anya Kurennaya, Canon Magazine: The Magazine for the New School for Social Research (Fall 2010).

INVITED WRITING & REVIEWS (IN SCHOLARLY PUBLICATIONS)

“Reinserting the Fat Body into Fashion History—A Reading List,” Art History Teaching Resources (November 30, 2018).

“Book Review: Contours of a Nation: Making Obesity and Imagining Canada (By Deborah McPhail, University of Toronto Press, 2017)," Fat Studies: An Interdisciplinary Journal of Body, Weight & Society 7.3 (2018).

 REVIEWS (IN SCHOLARLY, PEER-REVIEWED PUBLICATIONS)

“Book Review, Teaching Fashion Studies (ed. Holly M. Kent,” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, body and Culture 24.2 (2020).

“Exhibition Review, Virgil Abloh: Figures of Speech (MCA Chicago),” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 24.3 (2020)

“Book Review, Contours of a Nation: Making Obesity and Imagining Canada (by Deborah McPhail, University of Toronto Press, 2017),” Fat Studies: The Journal of Body Weight and Society 7.3 (2018).

"Book Review, Dress History: New Directions in Theory and Practice (Edited by Charlotte Nicklas and Annebella Pollen, Bloomsbury 2015)," The International Journal of Fashion Studies, 4.2 (2017)

"Exhibition Review, Georgia O'Keeffe: Living Modern (Brooklyn Museum, March 3-July 23, 2017)," Textile History 48.2 (November 2017): 271-274. 

"Film Review, The First Monday in May (Directed by Andrew Rossi, 2016)," Journal of Curatorial Studies 5.2 (June 2016): 275-278.

"Exhibition Review, Beyond Measure: Fashion and the Plus-Size* Woman (8WSE, 13 January-February 3, 2016)," Textile History 47.2 (November 2016): 249-251.

"Exhibition Review, Faking It: Originals, Copies, and Counterfeits (The Museum at F.I.T., 2 December 2014-25 April 2015)," Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 20.3 (April 2016): 369-375.

"Exhibition Review, Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced (The Museum of the City of New York, 22 March-28 July, 2013)," Fashion Practice 8.2 (November 2016): 335-338.

"Exhibition Review, David Bowie Is… (Victoria & Albert Museum, London, 23 March-11 August 2013)," Journal of Curatorial Studies 3.1 (February 2014): 139-143.

PUBLIC SCHOLARSHIP

“Fashion and Politics: In Defense of the ‘I Voted’ Sticker,” Chicago Tribune (November 8, 2018)

"When Brands Use Plus-Size Models and Don't Make Plus-Size Clothes," Racked (June 5, 2018)

"New Study Finds the Average American Woman is Now Plus-Size," Psychology Today (September 22, 2016)

"Fashion Photography and the Feminist Aesthetics of Disgust," Psychology Today (September 20, 2016)

"Bare Faced, Glowing and Dewy," Psychology Today (September 17, 2016)

Designer Biographies: Todd Oldham, Jil Sander, Matthew Williamson, Moschino and Claude Montana, Bloomsbury Fashion Photography Archive (November 2016).

"Fashion’s Footnote: Early Uses and Shifting Meanings of Plus-Size," Vestoj: The Journal of Sartorial Matters (April 2015).